Skagway
I think we mentioned that we would be leaving Haines on the 10 pm ferry, September 4th. With no glitches, we made the ferry, it cost $138 for the two of us and Gertie. I think she enjoyed the rest and it cost about $100 less than it would have cost for gas to make the trip from Haines back around to Skagway. Ferries at night are really different. We had been waiting a half hour or so, thinking we would never get underway when Gary finally went to check things out and discovered we were moving. You just couldn’t feel it. Until we got where we could see the lights of Skagway you had no sensation of movement.
We found a parking space and settled down for the night. It wasn’t nearly as cold as the other places we had been. The next morning we decided to go out to breakfast…a mistake! I guess there are normally 2 restaurants that serve breakfast but on this particular morning there was only one. We had hoped to have sourdough pancakes, we had seen them advertised in lots of places. Whoops, we waited too long. This place didn’t have them so we settled for buttermilk pancakes and an omelet.
The Park Service has purchased several buildings in Skagway to provide a National Park. They had a movie about the early days and provided guided tours. One of the buildings was a museum, showing the amount of supplies that were required by the Mounties to cross the pass, and one was a saloon that had been restored. The restoration of the saloon was done without any pictures, just using period materials, things found within the building and descriptions from people that had been around during that era. They found wallpaper within the structure and were able to identify it, even found the manufacturer still had the plates and were able to copy it exactly. The bar & bar-back was found and been brought in from Kansas. After the restoration was completed someone came across an early photo and they had really done a great job. There weren’t any differences that we could see between the picture and the restoration.
The log cabin was the original one, built by Captain Moore and had been his home. He had homesteaded the area, predicting there would be a gold strike and had built the first trail. Because of the numbers of people coming through Skagway, then onto the trail and because of the weather that year, it didn’t hold up. People came into the area and started building on Moore’s property. He told the people that the property they were building on was his, but they built anyway. A pretty shrewd guy, he was the one they had to buy their lumber from! Shrewd, because later, he got compensation of ¼ of the appraised value of every building in town!
He later built along the side of the log cabin. That home was furnished as it would have been at that time. The most interesting piece of furniture was this table. The legs were made of horns. At some later date the cabin was moved over a little to better display the original cabin.
Another building still in town is where “Soapy” Smith. The ranger was pretty good at telling stories about him even though the building was nothing to brag about. He was real sleazy guy. He was killed in a gunfight with one of the town’s citizens by the name of Reid. They both fired at the same time, and Soapy was killed outright, Reid died a week or so later. The town was so proud of Reid, that they put on his tombstone: “Gave His Life For The Honor of the Town”. At the cemetery is another tombstone put up in honor of a Lady of the Night: “She Gave Her Honor For The Life Of The Town”
The lady with the horses & buggy were all around town. I assume she was doing rides but we never saw anyone riding. Maybe she was the Madam, they had tours of the brothel. The three story building was called to our attention on the National Park tour. It appears to be 3 story but in fact is only 2. They did that to make their businesses show up. When people came in and asked for the 3rd floor corner room they would just tell them that room was already rented but the 2nd floor had a room available. I guess their guests never saw if from the angle we did.
The Skagway Visitor’s Center is in the Arctic Brotherhood Hall It’s façade has almost 8,833 pieces of driftwood sticks in a mosaic pattern with the Brotherhoods A B symbols and letters, a gold pan with nuggets.
The town is absolutely full of jewelry stores. It seemed like about every block had 2 or 3. One of the interesting points was the sign, painted on the side of the mountain above the town. It was for a Curio/jewelry store. The sign was much more impressive than the store itself. The sun did come out while we were there, it was a very pleasant visit. Here is where we spent the 2nd night in the edge of Skagway. From there we walked up along the railroad tracks to the cemetery. As we were headed there we got this picture of the train. We also saw this machine and the operator was taking a break. We stopped to talk to him a bit. You have probably all seen shredders. Well, this one was the daddy of all shredders. It belonged to the railroad and they had this big pile of stuff to be shredded, including railroad ties. He said it would take a week or two to finish that entire pile. I was curious about the metal that is always involved with shredding a pile like that and whether the railroad spikes had to be removed. He said it doesn’t even phase it and showed us some of the stuff it had spit out.
The next morning was again a pretty day and we started to drive to Dyea, we wanted to see the famous Chilkoot Pass that the men had to tote a ton (literally) of stuff up the steep mountainside. They had to make many trips toting their belongings up that mountain. As we drove out of Skagway toward the ghost town, there was a beautiful overlook, it looked down on the airport as well as the Skagway. We even saw a helicopter, it looked like he was going to land on the water, maybe they were seeing whales, just don’t know, that is a guess. When we stopped at the overlook there was a pickup stopped, headed back toward Skagway. We asked about the road to Dyea, about whether you could see the pass, etc. They said you just see where the trail goes into the woods, and that the road was not very good. We decided we had seen enough, we were still having problems with our coughs so didn’t want to try to do a vigorous hike. So we headed out of town, toward Carcross. The picture with the waterfall was along the road just outside Skagway. If you enlarge it you will notice a pipe to the right of the falls. That is the inlet for the hydro electric system that powers all of Skagway. We also thought you would enjoy the bridge. It is totally supported from the one side and was also built entirely from that side.
After we passed the border we started having some problems with Gertie. It seemed to be fuel starved. After limping along for a while we remembered we had a new fuel pump tucked away. We found a place along our route where we could get off the road far enough to work on it. After several hours we finally read the directions and got it on. Gary couldn’t get gas to flow with the new pump and we finally gave up. Gary had to hitchhike back to Carcross, about 6 miles, to call for a tow truck. It was Sunday so it took several calls before we finally had a truck on its way. The man who had picked Gary up on his way in had been going in to make phone calls too. When he finished, he gave Gary a lift back to the motorhome. We gave you a picture of Gertie while the driver disconnected the driveline. It was a pretty spot but hard to enjoy with what was happening. The nearest shop was in Whitehorse so our route had a little deviation since we had intended to take a cutoff and head south. We spent Sunday night at the shop parking lot, and when we went in to arrange repair the manager was less than friendly, telling us that it might be the next day before he got to us. They did get to us that day after all. The first task was just to get it to run. (Not only had it quit, but the generator had also stopped running.) They were convinced that the gas tank was empty so we walked to the station and got a can of gasoline. He got it started quickly then so they were really convinced that it had simply been out of gas. We only had about 90 miles on that tank so we knew it shouldn’t have been dry, but since it was now running we went to the station, filled the tank and started up the hill to leave town. Well, we were right, it was still doing the same thing. We went back, had to wait awhile again before they could get to it. This time they changed the filter in the carburetor and everything is okay now. We finally got out of Whitehorse about 3 pm and drove until around 6:30 before we called it a day.
The trip from Whitehorse to Stewart/Hyder was pretty uneventful. The weather was crappy and we had miles and miles of wet dirt/gravel roads. The vehicles all looked like they had been out 4 wheeling in the mud puddles. The mud on Gertie went all the way to the roof. Once Gary figured we were past the dirt/gravel sections, we stopped along a lake where there was a boat launch and gave Gertie a bucket bath. I think she was relieved to have all that mud off, must have made her load a lot lighter too. We did see several foxes along the Cassiar Highway. The first two were kind of a mottled black with a white tail tip. The third one was a beautiful red fox, also with the white tail tip.